Celebrities appearing at international events may have the platform to model sustainably-made apparel for the world, but making sustainable apparel accessible – or the norm, the expectation – for consumers worldwide is the true objective, and one that may be closer than many even within the fashion industry may realise, says Chris Govier.
Reconciling the fashion world with demands for sustainable practices is an ongoing challenge, and one that presents no easy answers. The World Economic Forum estimates fashion and textiles are responsible for one-tenth of the world’s carbon emissions, with more than 85% of all textiles produced headed to the dump annually. The Harvard Business Review suggests there have been no significant gains for sustainable fashion since 2000, pointing to the increased over-production of footwear as but one example. It’s well-established that textiles is one of the highest-polluting and most wasteful industries in the world, and measures such as the New York Fabric Act and EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles reflect the continued struggle to proactively drive the industry towards a more responsible and accountable state.
With a growing partner ecosystem spanning the technology and designer communities worldwide, companies like Kornit are committed to changing the equation for what fashion can be, its place in a more demanding and responsible marketplace, and the possibilities it presents for both unleashed expression and profitable business models. We do this by breaking the traditional production models, eliminating dependence on complex and vulnerable global supply chains, and streamlining the journey from creative concept to wearable garment.
Consider what the traditional fashion production model entails. A concept may take more than a year to reach the runway, and to bring a garment to the marketplace requires building inventory. Building that inventory requires stable or cost-controlled access to the necessary raw materials – supply chains subject to bottlenecks, tariffs, human or labour rights concerns, pandemics and acts of God. You hope to break even by selling enough merchandise to justify that inventory. When the fashion cycle turns, you’re marking down that inventory, with unsold goods ultimately being written off, donated, scrapped or even burned. Essentially, you’ve gambled on the popularity of your creation, and losing means not only dwindling profit margins, but in many cases a reputation for being a wasteful contributor to the problem – ask Shein, H&M or Burberry what that means. Over-production isn’t sustainable as an environmental model, a business model or a public relations model.
Digital on-demand production technology is already solving this problem for creators, brands and fulfillers throughout the world, and that new reality is about to burst into the mainstream. E-commerce has long created a nearly unlimited array of options for the consumer, but a maturing ecosystem of digital technologies is doing the same for designers looking to fulfil their visions without compromise, brands looking to capture and capitalise on social trends the moment they’re perceptible, producers looking to create new products and tap new markets at will, and more. Virtual reality, augmented reality and the metaverse are giving designers and consumers alike new ways to engage each other, model concepts in real time and ‘try on’ any apparel virtually before committing to any one piece. And thanks to digital, only then would you actually produce the garments.
In addition to using pigment-based inks that meet several rigorous environmental standards (such as GOTS, Oeko-Tex Eco Passport, and Bluesign), on-demand print systems empower designers to bring their creations from concept to runway in only weeks, with custom fabrics ready to use in minutes –perfect for sampling different materials and graphic effects. Production costs are low and consistent, so fulfilling orders of one or 1000 yield reliable profit margins. The speed to market, supplemented by efficient workflow and visibility systems to ensure a streamlined, accountable pixel-to-parcel fulfilment process, means producing only what has been sold is a realistic business model, safeguarding operations against unforeseen disruptions and enabling nearshoring or onshoring of operations to mitigate supply chain risks. For designers and brands, a growing network of digital-enabled fulfillers stands ready to welcome their business, supplying high-quality fulfilment of their concepts in most any materials, ready to wear or ship almost instantly.
It’s one thing to discuss the mechanics of digital fashion production, but another to see just what the finished product can be. That’s why working alongside such organisations as Red Carpet Green Dress and participants in events like New York Fashion Week, as well as the Kornit Fashion Weeks is key to highlighting what bold and beautiful creations may come of a process that delivers on the promise of a digital world.
Chris Govier is president of EMEA at Kornit Digital
The next Kornit Fashion Week is in Tel Aviv on 19-22 March, featuring 28 designers bringing their creations to the runway using digital print and workflow capabilities.
